Final Hand in

Handed in...

Conservatories

Staircores

Bracing Bays

Bracing check

Assembly

Spraying Baseboard

Glazing check

With the glazing meeting at the corners I have chamfered all the acrylic to the correct angle using the inclinometer and the circular saw.

Stairs and lifts disappearing through baseboard

With a total of three subterranian layers I felt it was important to highlight that even though they didnt feature on the model there were floors below ground level. I have laser cut holes out of the baseboard where the stairs can disappear. The perimeter of the glazing has also been designed to disappear below this level also.

Baseboard

The baseboard was etched on the laser cutter with all the landscaping. This is intended to provide an outline where I could mask off the sections of greenery as I speckled them. With etching the lines I could also ensure that these would be unaffected when they were sprayed.

Penthouse fins

The penthouse features fins which are actually curved as part of the glazing. Rather than make the fins curved I have chamfered 2mm acrylic to bring the fins to a point.

Steel Bracing

I have laser cut the steel bracing from 5mm thick acrylic although it has been simplified from what the actual bracing looks like.

Stair cases

To represent the staircases I have chosen to use etched ramps. However they still need to be cut at an angle to create a neat detail where they connect to the floor plates. I used the circular saw to do this and stuck them to a piece of sacrificial MDF.

Copper Window Panels

I laser cut the glazing in a total of 6 panels per 2 floors. (4 sides and 2 end) To avoid the need for masking I cut right through the material and seperated out the squares of acrylic for the copper panels. This meant that they could be sprayed seperately and then glued back into the glazing. This also avoided waste material as it could still be used.

Privacy blades

I have chosen to go for a realistic paint for the copper elements of the building, and have chosen to use Plastikote Copper spray paint. Due to wanting to get a good paint finish on the blades I built a jig to hold them whilst they were painted, so I didnt ruin the paint finish and as both sides needed to be painted I made sure that they were held at the very top and bottom of the material with double sided, it wouldnt have caused as much of a problem if some of the paint had come away on the double sided as it would be less visible in these locations. I also wanted to spray the blades raised up off a surface so that I didn't get any problems with the paint when the blades were turned over to paint the other side.

Top floor Window blades

There are curved blades on the top two floors of the building which create the staggered effect with the glazing. I opted to make these initially on the CNC machine, however it was proving too busy at that point to get on the machine as it was being used. I decided to look at alternative methods of making the blades.

Initially I opted to use chemiwood which I would then chamfer on the circular saw and then cut into 12mm strips. However this was proving difficult to cut into the 2mm thickness that I needed the strips to be.

The next option I looked at was to use 2mm thick acrylic, this would remove the need for me to accurately cut the material to the correct thickness, all I had to do was to cut it to 12mm wide and then put the chamfer on the material to create the diamond shape. It was the chamfering of the material which proved to be difficult, I was intially chamfering strips of material 600mm long, due to the changes in material thickness over this length and having to stick it to a piece of MDF which I could then run along the fence of the circular saw, I was getting various results for the chamfer as well as chipping at the point as can be seen in the picture below-




I then decided to cut the strips down to 85mm long which was the length I required and then chamfer the material by angling the circular saw blade and using double sided tape sticking the strips to a piece of MDF, this was a time consuming process, however I was getting much more consistant results.

Balcony Handrails

I assembled the balconies from styrene strip.

Balcony steels painted

Once the floor plates had been painted I masked off the white and painted the steelwork matt black. I had a few issues with overspray in the first instance as I hadn't masked off enough to avoid some of the paint particles landing on the white paint, however because of this I decided to wrap all the subsequent floor plates in newspaper to avoid a repeat.

Mock up panel between floor plates.

I have placed the mock up panel I made for my sample between the floor plates to get a better idea of how the model will look.

Painting the floor slabs.

Now the internal walls have all been added to the floor plates I have painted them a slightly warmer coulour than bright white which might be perceived as being cold.

Internal Walls

After I stacked up the floor plates on the combs I have cut the internal walls to divide up the floor space and provide support so that the plates can stack on top of each other without being held by the joint between the columns and the plates. This will provide a much more solid structure.

Combs

I have been advised by my tutors to look at stacking the floor plates up on combs to check the overall height gain relating to the acrylic tolerance. Once I have measured the overall height of all the floorplates when they are at their correct heights, I can then check the overall thickness of the material and work out how tall the internal walls need to be to achieve the correct height.

Privacy blade flashings

On the top of the floor slabs that protrude outside the glazing there is a flashing which can be seen on my mock up model. I chose this as the method in which to fit the copper privacy blades. I chose to make it in two parts to recreate the shadow gap which occurs on the actual building. Making the underside solid would also block off the holes in the floorslab that I have created to locate the top of the copper privacy blades as there is no flashing on the underside of the slabs.



The slab edge detail taken from the architects drawings can be seen above.

Interior representation

At a scale of 1:75 the interiors of the floors will be visible. After speaking to Mike Fairbrass on my visit to RHS+P he thought that I should show some representation of the domesticity of the pavillion at this scale. I have managed to find a floor plan from a website which shows all the rooms and their use can be deciphered from the furniture illustrated. I now need to decide how much of the interior I am going to represent with my model.